Local Virginia Beach surfers, Cody Hammer, Julian Smith, Chris Bain and Jake Hall recently visited Puerto Escondido, Mexico this summer. Puerto Escondido is a small port and tourist center in the municipality of San Pedro Mixtepec Distrito 22 in the Mexican state of Oaxaca. Prior to the 1930s, there was no town. The bay had been used as a port intermittently to ship coffee, but there was no permanent settlement due to the lack of potable water. Puerto Escondido is one of the most important tourist attractions on the Oaxacan coast. It caters to a more downscale and eclectic clientele than neighboring Huatulco, mostly surfers, backpackers and Mexican families. The main attractions are the beaches: Zicatela Beach hosts major surfing competitions, while other beaches have gentle waves. A large lagoon area to the west of the town is popular for fishing. Playa Zicatela is known for its world-class waves. In 2017, the New York Times released Puerto Escondido as #32 of its 52 best places to visit list.
"Out of all my travels, the beaches of Mexico are some of the most beautiful ones I've seen. I would recommend this destination to any average surfer on the East Coast that is anxious for some waves during the flat summertime on the East Coast. We spent ten days catching waves and tuna", says Cody Hammer.
Mexico is relatively cheap when it comes to travel and living fees, and groceries. DO NOT drink their water tap water, only drink out of water bottles. Another tip Cody told me is to visit with a group and always still with your group, especially at night.
What to Do in Puerto Escondido
Surf
Every morning you can catch the surfers walking with their boards to the beach at Zicatela or La Punta. The waves here are so epic that it’s known as the Mexican Pipeline when waves can reach 30+ feet during the summer months. Though the best conditions are between April and October, that doesn’t stop surfers from going out all year round, taking any wave they can get during the off season. There are countless surf shops offering board rentals and lessons on both the Zicatela and La Punta strips but most notable are Oasis Surf School, Puerto Surf Lessons, and Zicazteca Surf School. If you’re a beginner, best to start out with a few lessons instead of renting a board and going for it – the surfers here take it seriously and aren’t too happy when novices get in the way.
Explore the Beaches
Puerto Escondido is blessed with some truly exceptional beaches. La Punta is more rugged and a mellow beach, Zicatela has several loungers and palapas for rent, Carrizalillo is a bit of a descent but absolutely gorgeous, Bacocho is more secluded and has a nightly ‘turtle liberation’ (where hatchlings are guided into the ocean), Coral can feel like your own private beach as it’s often very quiet and has no vendors, Manzanillo and Puerto Angelito right across the cove are ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Many of the smaller beaches offer snorkel gear and stand up paddle board rentals. Be sure to be on a beach when the sun goes down because oh my god – the sunsets here are incredible, and it doesn’t really matter which beach you choose.
Boat Trips
The ocean just off the coast is home to sea turtles, dolphins and humpback whales, the latter during the winter months. A number of larger tour operators offer scheduled tours as well as independent guides who may approach you on the beach or in town. Deep sea fishing is also a popular pastime here if you’re interested. Whichever type of tour you take, make sure you choose an ethical operator who follows sustainability practices.
Benito Juarez Market
This market in town offers a glimpse of local life in Puerto Escondido. A variety of vendors sell everything you might need such as meats, spices, vegetables, sauces, fruits, flowers, clothing and crafts, and several food stalls are perfect for a tasty Oaxacan meal or snack. It’s a bit of a trek away from the beach but it’s worth it – plus it gives you an opportunity to see more of Puerto Escondido away from other tourists.
Turtle Release
From July to January, Olive Ridley Sea Turtles ascend the beaches to lay their eggs en masse. Within the proceeding weeks, the hatchlings will grow and hatch at the same time. Their instinct to head for the water is strong, but factors such as light pollution from town and predators can make it difficult to reach their final destination. For a small fee you can support the ‘liberacion de tortugas‘ at Playa Bacocho, where you transport a tiny hatchling close to the water and allow it a greater chance of survival. It’s not only a benefit to the turtle population, it’s downright adorable.
My next blog post is some pictures of Cody's travels in Puerto Escondido, all photos are property of Cody Hammer. To keep up and read more about Cody's other travels, follow him on Instagram (@cody.hammer)
